california climbing

So, this week we have- Started climbing properly, discovered my fear of bees and wasps is very real, ran and trained in the desert heat, ripped a hold off the crag low down, rigged the little solar panel to the roof tent, and posed for lots of climbing pics.

So taking off from the last post, after discovering the parcel was going to be a week longer we drove to Sawtooth Canyon back in the middle of California where we had stopped previously. The canyon is filled with hundreds of sport routes up to 120ft and as it is free camping seemed like a logical place to be. The second day after a couple of easier sport routes to warm up on I decided on something harder and went into the 5.10s’. It was a relief that after so long off climbing I could still climb a reasonable grade. The first route over 100ft with interesting huecos (hollow features in the rock) , the second route being an awkward corner requiring a little technique again rising 100ft. After climbing we drove to town and loaded up with water and cheap tinned produce after struggling to keep fresh goods cold in the heat. This gave us a lazy afternoon sat back drinking wine, eating snacks and reading.

cool silhouette

solar panel rigged for early morning phone charging

one of the holds that ripped off while trying to climb, this was followed by loose bolts and a retreat.

sizing up the first 5.10

karli relaxing after the climbing in shade

The next day climbing was hard and very sustained around the 5.10. If I am honest it was painful, after yesterdays climbing my fingers hurt and the little crimps were not fun, nor were the cruxes or gaining the last 10ft on one route to the top bolts/chains which took several attempts to reach. We finished the morning climbing on a beautiful 5.7 route on red and white swirly rock which was a nice warm down. Climbing out here seems tiring and hot. Which it is.

The final day climbing was a fail, during the night I picked out three awesome routes that went to the highest points on some cool lines. 120ft (36m) in length being slightly past the limit of the 70m rope (you require enough rope to get up and back down on a sport route), but as the route had intermediate anchors half way, would be a good intro to multi pitch sport for Karli. After taking a while to find the start scrambling up and down little canyons, we arrived at the base. Looking at the rock I was sceptical. We roped up and I started climbing, 6 feet of the ground the first big jug hold ripped off the crag. That was disappointing. The next few holds looked of a similar manor. Cracked, flaky, hollow sounding and felt slightly loose. We decided to cut to the next route before more holds came detached. I should mention this area of the canyon doesn’t see too much traffic, being a 10 minute walk as opposed to roadside, and the rock being lesser quality. The next route I started climbing on similar looking rock and found the first bolt loosely spinning. It was a dismal feeling, well within my ability, but bad vibes coming from the route. We descended back down the canyon. Karli received a message saying my parcel had arrived. Within a few minutes we packed up camp and started the drive back.

Parcel collected, today-Mexico. Wish I could say more but there is lots to do.

This week on the road we have:

Tried to climb, tried to surf, waited for a parcel that never actually set off, tried to drive the wrong way up a mountain according to satnav, tried to climb again, stealth camped because we didn’t want to drive, eaten Mcdonalds (success).

So, the climbers mindset is not fully back yet, the level of commitment has been, well, more about burgers and junk food than elevation gained and meters climbed. But, it is important to carb load and I will not turn down junk. I am still 25lb lighter than when I started this trip.

In San Diego we stopped at my friend Axels’ apartment. We did commence training with running in the air-cooled gym and some basic circuit core work. We did discover around here the time to climb is not when the sun is high. It’s an effort even getting to a crag. Every attempt to climb above 5.10 has been thwarted by heat and poor motivation. But it’s there, I know it is coming each time we get back out. Climbing steep for the first time in a couple of years is like relearning. From when rock can be trusted to support a smeared foot to tying bunny-ear anchors (climbers knot to belay from).

We have also tried to surf. I remember when I was learning in oz and back home the pain of falling forwards into a wave, swallowing lots of water, trying to paddle out and nearly breaking my nose, unsuccessful. This was almost the same. But I am now considering getting a cheap board as it is good fun.

The fingers have been sore, I smell like the sea and I am tired from last nights camp. Last night was stealth camping. Basically in fancy areas they don’t like people pitching tents anywhere, they charge extortionate amounts to even park a car. And so we are forced onto side streets and into the back of a vehicle. It was a neat fit, but not the worst, we can both fully lie down in the back, a few inches above head to the surfboard, and a mess of camping chairs, bags and towels all around us.

I looked in mirror while Karli was driving this morning and felt 10 years older, I almost didn’t recognise the guy staring back. Bearded, worn, sunburned, bruised, painful fingers, a nearly repaired cracked rib. I remember looking at all the late 20 to young 40s surf and climbing bums back home when I was 18 and wondering if I would end up like them. I guess I have, because staring back in the side mirror this morning was a tired, battered but content person with no place to be in the world.

Finding out the parcel I had been waiting for hadn’t left the city I live in was devastating. I’ll be honest, it was not what I expected. I thought it was in Costa Mesa nearby, Instead its been waiting for a customs exemption form before it leaves home. I sat down in REI and then lay down. The rest of this week is now waiting, Mexico is evading me in every way possible. There is a nice crag nearby with camping at the bottom. I am thinking a week cut off from civilisation would be nice. It would be epic. Nothing but climbing and noodles.